Our first night in town, a Thursday, the cab took us quickly by a concert in Santa Lucia park. It was just as the travel publicity had promised — families, people of all ages, enjoying traditional serenades in the open air. Where we live, there is a gazebo in a town square, and the old-timers bring lawn chairs and listen to polka or big band music. This is a little like that, but I think in Mérida, these have more general appeal, and the music happens more often.
That first impression has forever colored my impression of this little park across Santa Lucia Church, on Calles 55 and 60. The third oldest park in Mérida, this “Parque de los Héroes” is anchored by a large obelisk that looks like it snapped off years ago. We had to look closely at the weathered plaque to see it was dedicated to a General Sebastian Molas in 1887, two years after the major battles of the Caste War had ended.
When and why did Gen. Molas’ obelisk snap? Why isn’t it being repaired. No one I asked seemed to have given it much thought. A broken monument may be an apt symbol for such an ugly chapter in history after all.